Getting to Dharamshala from Rishikesh was quite the adventure. You see, buses on time or even showing up are not a given in India. Even if you purchased your bus ticket in advance. There's no bus station where you wait for the bus. You basically just sweat on the side of a noisy, dusty road, with absolutely no one communicating when, or if, your ride will show up.
So I guess it was just another day in India when my bus was a no-show. And yes, I was in the middle of the road, not knowing anyone or what was going on. But here's the magic of India: you're never alone. I quickly made friends with two equally bewildered travelers, and we did the sensible thing: pooled our cash and secured a cramped, slightly unsettling taxi for the all-night drive up the mountain.
This was where the journey truly earned its stripes. It was a long, dark, and classically sketchy drive that only makes sense when you're traveling like this. Our driver was a man of unusual habits. To ensure the road trip flowed more peacefully, I dosed myself and my new homies and we surrendered to the driver's dramatic swerving and the Himalayan hairpin turns. You have to roll with it.
The essentials for this night drive are: a neck pillow, a hoodie (mountain air drops fast), snacks, and something to listen to. Book through a trusted guesthouse or hostel in Rishikesh rather than a street tout. Expect 8 to 12 hours depending on road conditions. Arrive ready to sleep, because you will not sleep in the car.
We made it finally at around midday the next day. Utterly exhausted. Could use some sleep but hadn't booked anywhere. So I walked into town and found a cheap hostel that seemed well located. I like getting shared rooms sometimes as it helps me connect with more people. My roommates and I all vibed instantly and we became good friends immediately and decided to go for a walk and get some food.
Walking in Dharamshala feels so safe, even solo and late at night. The air is thick with the scent of pine and Momos, and the streets are crawling with musicians. A lot of the restaurants host live music gigs. Jamming is a very big part of the culture there. In fact, every day there was an ecstatic dance, a Cacao ceremony, a breathwork session or intentional workshop organized somewhere. There's a WhatsApp group where events are shared daily.
The food was so cheap. I avoided street food not to get sick but still paid less than $5 per meal in delicious, clean restaurants. Everyone was so warm all the time and people don't hesitate to invite you to try their food when they're sitting beside you in the restaurant. That is the real One Love Vibe: shared food, shared space.
Dharamshala is a small, easy to navigate town. It doesn't demand anything from you except to go with the flow of the moment, breathe deep, and let the good vibes wash over you. The nature all around is epic. There are many waterfalls and beautiful hikes all around.
Here are 4 hacks to make the most out of Dharamshala: Get on the local WhatsApp group as soon as you arrive. The upper town is the real town. Book your accommodation in Dharamkot. This immediately plugs you into the WhatsApp event flow and puts you within walking distance of the Dalai Lama's temple. Always carry cash, as almost nowhere accepts card. Master the taxi negotiation exit strategy: always negotiate the price before you sit down, then immediately ask if that includes the road tax and bags. Often, drivers will sneak in hidden fees last minute.
I had the most powerful breakthrough during a breathwork session there. I was able to let go of some pain that was weighing down my chest and it was a relief. Research published in Frontiers in Psychology documents how meditation and mindfulness practice measurably alter brain structure and reduce stress markers. Dharamshala delivers this naturally.
If you haven't been to Rishikesh yet, read my full account of Ashtanga Yoga Teacher Training in Rishikesh first. For budget tips across India and Southeast Asia, the Travel Deal Seekers page has all the platforms I use for cheap flights and accommodation. And if you're comparing spiritual travel destinations, check out the Bali One Love Vibe post for a very different but equally transformative scene.